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If I count them as 2 loops, im at 9m which is over the safe limit for the 10AWG cable. If they're 2 separate loops due to the 2 fuses however, I should be ok Informed opinions?
VIP Member. T6 Legend. Last edited: 8 Apr Dellmassive said:. I over specified the cable to the fridge as I had heard that the surge current could be quite high. This resulted in a larger voltage drop than expected at fridge start-up, which meant it could fail to start. Will try and find out what gauge I used.
Engel Thermal Fuse 12V
Ann3x said:. The ground is just run back to the fuse box shared bus bar. So by that reckoning, 10AWG is not enough?
Pete C said:. Vitrifrigo C50i Fridge but if your looking to add more loads to that rear fuse box. So basically the main feeds to your rear fuse box will be capable of carrying the higher loads.
However, purely from safety point - for fuse size vs. And as above never hurts to have smaller fuse or thicker cable. Nothing about length of run in that table which is a bit strange as it should play a big role in choice of wire If your cable is insufficient the voltage drop will be too much and the fridge will think you have a low battery and will shut down.
On a run like yours I would up the fuse box feed to 16 mm and the fridge supply to 6 mm. More likely that you will see the fridge shutting off earlier than it should as the battery voltage falls. It won't be a safety issue as long as the fuse is appropriate for the cable. T6 Pro. Hi, It mentions wiring in the instruction manual and states 15A fuse from memorywe always use a 15A.Most of these outlets state " watts Max", but when I put just a watt 8 Amps load on them they immediately drop about 2 volts, i.
The wiring is simply not heavy enough to supply a reasonable current at the required voltage, and this is crucial. Now some people do get away with it ok because when the vehicle is running the alternator lifts the voltage up to around So while you may still like to fit a standard socket for other accessories, I think that you should seriously consider fitting an Anderson plug as well for your fridge. This sentence is sort of obsolete now considering what I just said above, but still may suit some people So here is a hot tip for anyone that likes to use their fridge mostly in the one spot i.
A real trap for the unaware is that auto cable is often marketed as amp, amp, amp and so on, this can be very misleadingthe rating is simply the current the wire can carry before the cable gets so hot that the plastic cover starts to meltit has no other real meaning of any consequence!!
All of the items I have talked about can be purchased from any of the better auto electrical shops. Installing a 12V power socket in your car for a portable fridge. Big trap, please don't get caught View My Stats.Free shipping. Click image to enlarge. This complete fuse kit contains one dual negative spring loaded contact, one positive tip contact, one fuse, one internal positive spring loaded fuse contact and one merit Hella to cigarette lighter plug adapter cap.
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dometic WAECO EPS817A TRANSFORMER 240V TO 12V 6A
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Very robust. But the fridge died when I disconnected the battery I forgot to turn it off first. On 12V it is completely dead, no lights. Fuse is fine. When connected to V through an inverter it works! Ive had it apart and while connected to the battery at That is the heavier PCB next to the compressor under the Danfoss cover. The only thing I can think of is replace the 9A poly Fuse from Way-cold. Except they threw me off when they said it cures blinking red light syndrome.
I dont get blinking red light, I get lights out. Any ideas? Maybe a new poly fuse is the way to go, Im not an electronics expert but have soldered a board before.
Need to know which model it is Vera or Verb. I had one of those too I reckon I've had every Waeco quirky thing happen to them both over the past few years I have correct wiring etc so no drop off of voltage etc a cause of many Waeco problems.
Waeco recommend to set to 'Low'. Your knowns I've had two go and had to be replaced I believe that will be your problem, lack of actual voltage supply. I guess we can discount your wiring being insufficient capacity. I've never had a fuse go so don't know if it will still work on V and not 12V Do you have an auxillary battery 12V starter.?.It is not a guide on how to actually wire up equipment, terminate cables, use a soldering iron etc.
It is not recommending which setups are good or bad. The drawings are not wiring diagrams, they are schematics showing topology only. All wiring should be done according to equipment datasheets and manuals. All designs should be checked and installed by a qualified auto-electrician.
Every design is a compromise. This guide gives you the info you need to pick your compromise. A dual battery system is where one or more auxiliary batteries are installed in addition to the standard starter battery of a car, 4WD or motorhome. The arrangement provides additional battery capacity to allow appliances like fridges and lighting to be powered, and prevents these appliances from loading the starter battery, ensuring your engine will start even after lengthy use of the appliances.
Dual battery systems are common in touring vehicles set up for camping, fishing and travelling around the outback. Whether there are one or more auxiliary batteries, and whether they are installed in the vehicle, under the bonnet, in the passenger cabin, in the tray, in a trailer or in a caravandoes not effect the design arrangements outlined in this article.
For the purpose of simplicity, this article will refer to only one auxiliary battery. A bank of batteries in parallel behaves the same as one large battery. All lead acid batteries behave fairly similarly. When connected in parallel, batteries do not need to be exactly matched, as charge and discharge current will naturally distribute between them according to their capacity.
A larger battery or a battery with less internal resistance will sink more current when charging as it pulls down the charging voltage. An auxiliary battery is most likely going to be cycled. That is, discharged at slow to moderate currents for long periods of time and then recharged. This is different to a starting battery, which needs to deliver high currents for short periods, but does not get depleted or cycled significantly.
Cycling lead acid batteries wears them out, causing sulfation of the negative electrodes. Deeper discharges cause a disproportionate increase in wear. Double the discharge depth, and the damage to the battery is more than doubled. Batteries used for cycling applications are specially designed to minimize wear caused by deep discharges, at the expense of reduced high current ability, increased weight and increased cost.
They are called deep cycle batteries and are the type of batteries that should be used as the second battery in dual battery systems. Putting your deep cycle battery in parallel with your starter battery is not a perfect arrangement, as they are of two different battery types.Waeco CDF has been discontinued. I've owned one of these for over 3 yrs its run nonstop on solar as a freezer. I've had my CDF35 for a few years now and it's been ok.
While it's an ok unit and taking into consideration it's price compared to the more expensive units there's a few things I didn't like about it: 1 have to keep an eye on the temperature and placement of certain foods in the compartment as it tends to freeze up in certain spots.
Lost a few cans of beer and softies in the process especially when connected to 12V for some reason. Read more. I picked mine up when when somebody had discarded it.
When I got it it was in pieces but I took it home had a look on the Internet. A couple of parts like the temp control I made myself. Anyway I got it going and have been using it for a few years now. I would like to say that the one I have was one tough fridge. Heaps of trouble over the years -electronic control panel and then thermistor packed up twice because of moisture buildup using the cover supplied. Did it myself but failed again. Stick to Engel - I should have.
This fridge has been plugged in for 16days on the 12v system so far extremely happy it is cold on low power and is relatively quite.
It freezes very quickly but only tried it once for a test. I intend to have it as a permanent fridge so it will never be turned off. I will update as review as time goes on.
I have trouble with flashing error lights on 12v but also on Slide temp control has been replaced. Voltage drop in a 10 m cable is. Save yourself the agro - buy another brand - I'm unfortunately stuck with this one till I really get annoyed and take it to the tip. Update from cfb-- finally got tired of the Waeco unreliability after it ceased working on a trip. There's a sign above the bar at the Packsaddles Hotel that says "Waeco - Swede for hot beer" Enough said.
Bought an Engel. Bought it approx 3 weeks ago, it has been on since, on 12 volt as well as and so far is excellent. Bought in earlymine has the Wanbo Chinese compressor and the performance has steadily deteriorated.
Design Guide for 12V Systems – Dual Batteries, Solar Panels and Inverters
Now just out of warranty and has failed completely. The service agent says it would cost too much to be worth repairing. I won't be buying another Waeco anytime soon. I have owned three of these fridges. The second also Danfos I bought second hand, used it for three years, and sold it to a buyer who seems happy.
It had obviously had some rough use before I owned it but never failed to perform. The third with the Chinese compressor I bought cheap as it was sold for parts or repair. However it was fine when I tried it.